Basic Installation Procedure

Besides a few common tools, what is really required is the patience to do it right. Sanderson Headers are built by hand in the USA with the finest materials. Properly installed, our products will give you years of trouble-free performance.

1. Be sure your engine is in tune. Timing and fuel/air mixture needs to be right-on to avoid heat-related gasket problems or damaged to the header coating (if you have coated headers). If your engine is new or rebuilt and never fired, see additional instructions below.
2. Disconnect the ground lead from the battery.
3. If you raise the vehicle to gain better access, support it on suitable heavy jackstands. Anything else is just plain dangerous.
4. The cylinder heads must be perfectly clean. Remove all traces of carbon, old gasket material and other debris, starting with a scraper and single edge razor blade. Finish with a wire brush and a final polish with Scotch-Brite® or similar abrasive pad. lastly, wipe all mounting surfaces with acetone (WARNING ~ Flammable!)
5. Install two studs, one in each end of the cylinder head to align the flange.
6. Place a bead of Permatex® #82180 Ultra Black® Silicone (or compatible) at least 1/8" thick, maximum 1/4". Allow the silicone to set until it becomes tacky to the touch. In hot weather this process could take as little as 5-10 minutes. In cold weather the process could take 20-30 minutes.
7. Put the header into place. Install all header bolts finger-tight, the torque to 15-20 ft/lbs. Tighten each with a short box-end wrench. We recommend a thin wall Snap-On® wrench that's quite handy for the job. (DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE BOLTS)
   TIP:People always ask, "What is 15-20 ft/lbs if I cannot get a torque wrench and socket on the bolts?" Well, you could experiment with other like-sized bolts in another area, first tightening the bolt with a torque wrench to the proper spec, then using the box-end wrench on the same bolt to train your muscle memory as to what force is needed to move it any tighter. But, an easier way is use the moniker "pink knuckle" or "pink fingertip" tight. You're working in a very tight space, so your fingertips are on the wrench. When you see your fingertips turning from normal color to pink then to almost red as you apply force to the wrench, you're probably where you need to be.
8. Use the same process at the collector. Always use Grade 5 or better bolts. Do not use stainless steel bolts (stainless steel bolts, when heated by the engine then cooled , become soft. This could cause the bolts to become loose.) We offer Grade 8 bolts with locking nuts for those interested.
9. Permatex® Ultra Black® cures fully in 24 hours at room temperature. We recommend a minimum of 4 hours curing time before firing your engine.

Special Instructions for New or Rebuilt Engines

Chrome, stainless and ceramic coated headers can be permanently damaged by installing them on untuned motors! Exhaust gas temperatures in fresh engines can easily exceed the limits of these materials, causing damage to the finish. For first time start-up, follow these recommended steps:

1. Install an old pair of headers or your stock exhaust manifolds without gaskets. Start the motor and adjust the timing, carburetor settings, and valves. Check for any vacuum leaks. Run the engine 10-20 minutes to burn out all traces of assembly lube.
2. Check for soot at the end of the tailpipe, caused by a too-rich fuel mixture. Correct this before you bolt on your new headers.
3. Let the motor cool completely, unbolt the old exhaust manifols and follow the procedure above to install your new Sanderson Headers.

A Few More Professional Tips

Whenever you change an engine component; camshaft, distributor, carburetor, etc., follow the procedure as if you were firing the motor for the first time. It's more work, but it saves you the risk of ruining your headers.

Finish & Upkeep

Plain Finish

• Wash headers with acetone (WARNING ~ Flammable!).
• The headers should be heated to approximately 200° by using either an oven or carefully with a torch.
• Hang the headers using a coat hanger through the bolt holes.
• Spray the headers with VHT paint while the headers are still hot. Spray inside and out.
• This process bakes the paint on the header and will protect the header from external and internal rust.

Ceramic Coated Headers

• After installation and before starting the engine, wipe the headers down with solvent (mineral spirits, carb cleaner, or similar) to remove oils and grease which might burn into the surface finish. Do not use any type of spray cleaner as they may contain caustic solutions which will degrade the appearance of the coating.
• Follow the procedure for checking and re-tightening flange bolts as with plain steel or stainless headers.
• Periodically wipe down the headers with solvent to remove chemical residues or road grease. Again, do not use spray cleaners.
• Polished or satin silver (aluminum) finishes may be buffed with fine steel wool or grey Scotch-Brite® to remove stubborn stains. Other colors of finish should only be cleaned with a warm solution of dishwashing or other mild detergent, using a nylon brush.
• After initial installation or periodic cleaning, it is advisable to wax the coating with a good grade of paste wax or polish. Avoid products which contain rubbing compounds or chemicals which claim to "restore" the finish.

Chrome and Stainless Finish

• Headers should be cleaned with a mild detergent or soap such as Windex.
• Spray VHT paint inside all the tubes and collector (chrome only). This will prevent rust build-up.
• Apply a heavy coat of paste wax, then let dry. When the wax is dry, buff , do not simply wipe off. Treat your new Sanderson Header's finish with the same care you would treat your vehicle's paint job. Wax headers frequently, this will help prevent blueing. You will be treated with years of satisfaction.
• After installing your Sanderson Headers, repolish them to be sure all finger prints and grease are removed.
• It is very important to run a low backpressure exhaust system with chrome headers. Too much back pressure creates excessive heat, which in turn will discolor your headers.
• Discoloration can also result from improper air/fuel mixture, incorrect ignition timing, or oil blowing by valve guides or piston rings.
• All headers are guaranteed as to workmanship, materials, and finish. This does not include discoloration or chrome stainless steel or ceramic coated headers.

Header Leakage is History

On e of the more frequent complaints about headers is the leakage that can occur between the header flange and the cylinder head. Our patented flange design eliminates this problem, as long as the owner maintains the proper torque on the header bolts. Checking the bolt tightness is part of routine tuning, tweaking, and maintenance that performance vehicles require.

If you have our headers and they were manufactured before November 1996, when we introduced our new flange, and you're experiencing leakage problems, copper flange gaskets are the answer. Unlike composite gaskets, copper expands to maintain a seal between the flange and the cylinder head.

One more word about bolts. Do not use stainless steel fasteners on your exhaust headers. We recommend Grade 8 fasteners, which are available at most hardware and home centers, or directly from us.

Untuned or Improperly Tuned Engines Will Destroy Headers

This applies to engines that are running to lean OR too rich. Either condition creates excessive heat, which melts the coating materials and the welds. Sources of the problems can be lack of adequate intake air, incorrect timing, bad adjustment of the carburetor or fuel injection, clogged or restricted exhaust, and vacuum leaks.

Small air cleaners on high power street rods are one common cause of high exhaust temperatures. Even a single 650cfm carburetor consumes a small roomful of air every minute, so restricting the size of the intake point is a big mistake. Those massive air scoops on competition cars are there for a reason. Increasing the size of the exhaust system without increasing the amount of air flow simply chokes the engine, and causes it to run too rich and too hot.

Timing and fuel system adjustments are another important consideration. A perfectly tuned motor is operating at maximum efficiency, turning fuel into power. An improperly tuned motor is converting fuel into heat. The absolute best way to know if you're running right is to use an exhaust gas analyzer. The "shade tree" method is to use a timing light, and read the color of the spark plugs and inside of the exhaust pipe. Both should be a light tan color. Black indicates a too rich condition, and white indicates a too lean condition.

Vacuum leaks are another common source of timing and fuel mixture problems. While it can time consuming to chase vacuum problems, it's worth the effort. An engine that is running right is less costly to operate, more fun to drive, and will last longer than one that is not. If you're not sure what to do to correct a timing or fuel problem, it is worth paying a professional to sort it out!

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Sanderson Headers
517 Railroad Ave.
South San Francisco, CA 94080

Toll Free: (800) 669-2430
Local:      (650) 583-6617
Fax:        (650) 583-8475